Keep Hitting Pulls?

Mon, 06/27/2011 - 16:33 -- Don Trahan

We got a question on the blog about how to stop pulling the ball. The writer said he was doing fine with the short irons but when it came to woods, especially the driver, he hit too many shots to the left. Robert F dove right in with a good suggestion: check hip and shoulder alignment.

There are a number of reasons for pulls and in this video I'€™ve tried to get to all the major points to check. Robert was right on. We can get our feet square but our hips and shoulders aren'€™t. That'€™s usually caused by having your back arm higher than your front arm when you get into the address position. That'€™s a pretty common mistake. That will get you into the Sacred Burial Ground in your backswing.

Also, the ball position could be too far forward which gets you reaching and literally pulling the ball.

Then, even with a shortened driver, longer clubs are harder to hit and even a minor miss hit can pull the ball way off your target.

Check the alignment of your entire body, from head to toe, and say goodbye to those pulled shots.

Keep it vertical,

The Surge!

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Comments

MikefromKy Go Bama. Go Irish's picture

Submitted by MikefromKy Go B... (not verified) on

shortgamewizard

I agree that the 13* launcher fw works well with the  17* but I usually will not go after a par 5 in 2 unless I am in the 220 range then I use the 17*. If I carry the 13* I have to take either my
3 hybrid or 60 degree wedge out to carry it in the bag I would rather do with out the 13* I only used it on short par 4's off the tee. I can use 17* for that. I was hitting a 9.5* 46" long driver that I hit on the screws with the rotational swing but the shaft tip on the proforce V2 HL shaft that is in it is to weak causeing snap hooks unless I time it correctly plus with switching to this swing I cant swing it vertically this why I am after a shorter proper fitting driver.

richard in theuk's picture

Submitted by richard in theuk (not verified) on

the really amusing thing is that they think  they are the first person to ever suggest it.

MikefromKy Go Bama. Go Irish's picture

Submitted by MikefromKy Go B... (not verified) on

Thanks Doc

The driver is killing me in tournaments. I will take 245 - 250 + in the
fairway over  270 - 280 way left out of the fairway or OB left and the 1
time 300 yard tee shot every couple of months in the fairway. If I miss
the 13 or 17 its a little right just of the fairway never left. I have
always called the 17 * a 4 w personally. I doubt that I will lengthen
either of the FW's I hit them to good the 13* is a waste for me to carry
I do not hit out of the fairway if I have 3w in on a par 5 I lay up to a
full wedge in and walk away with no worse than par most of the time.

I am going to have him measure both of them and give some serious
thought to getting the driver as close as possible if not the same
length of course with his in put. I am sure there will be some
adjustment time going from 46 to less than 44. 

Roger

Boogm's picture

Submitted by Boogm (not verified) on

Sodak, you may be trying to poptart to early in your FUS. I seem to recall someone else had that same problem one day last week,possibly Friday. Stay down until contact and swing naturally. The bump will take care of itself.

Jackoz's picture

Submitted by Jackoz (not verified) on

Go1f -
Is your left shoe larger than your right one?
If so, I have a suggestion -

Your legs are connected to your heels not your toes, so in your case, aligning your toes will have your legs not aligned

Draw a line across the toe of your left shoe to match the length of your right shoe
Now you aim with the toe of your right shoe & the line on your left shoe

The problem you describe is the same for equal footed people who flare one foot more than the other & don't allow for it

Jack

Doc Griffin's picture

Submitted by Doc Griffin (not verified) on

I personaly play a 43" driver and so does Surge. If you did it you should have no adjustment period as you probably are already swinging a club that length, your 3 wood. The key is that when you take a driver shorter, you have to add weight. When you add weight, you have to tip the shaft to accomodate it just as you would if you were building a FW wood. How much tipping would depend on how much weight is added. So the cut becomes a tipping rather than just a butt cut. Bill should know all this. Talk to him. If he has any hesitancy about it, have him call me.

Robert F's picture

Submitted by Robert F (not verified) on

I hope I was helpful. I just have a weird brain that is very good at cataloging and connecting all this stuff I read. Now if only it would connect better with my body, I'd be on Tour. ;-)

T Medley's picture

Submitted by T Medley (not verified) on

Remember the great line from Predator, "If it bleeds, we can kill it"   I have found by accident, a way to make it bleed.  Sorry folks, my bad!

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